Day 1 – 3

St-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Roncesvalles, Zubriri, Pamplona

Day 1: St-Jean to Roncesvalles

Distance: 25.6 km
Accommodation: B&B Gure Lana (10/10), Hotel Roncesvalles (8/10)

We kicked off with a lovely breakfast and a relaxed start. From the moment we began walking, we were struck by how chatty and welcoming everyone was. We quickly met fellow pilgrims, with baby Fred becoming an instant favorite! We’ve always known the Camino is social, but we didn’t expect this level of connection.

We stayed at the charming Hotel Roncesvalles—yes, it was pricier than we hoped, but after leaving our booking a bit late, we didn’t want to risk being left without a room. The food and ambiance made it worth the splurge! We’re now balancing booking just enough ahead to feel prepared without planning too far in advance, especially with Fred’s unpredictable needs.

Highlights:

• Made a new Kiwi friend and chatted the day away—though it was the only day we saw each other!
• Walking with wild bell ponies as our soundtrack
• Garlic soup to warm the soul

Lowlights:

• Missed a tiny spot on Fred’s lower eyelid with sunscreen and he got a bit of a sunburn! Felt like such a fail, but he didn’t seem to mind.

Reflections:

• Surprised by the average age—so many 70+ pilgrims! It’s inspiring to see people of all ages on this journey.
• Pilgrims are so kind and social! We even joked that Fred may be the youngest, while some of our new friends in their 70s might be the oldest.

Day 2: Roncesvalles to Zubriri

Distance: 21.7 km
Accommodation: Albergue Zaldiko (8/10)

We’d heard Day 1 was the hardest, and though Day 2 wasn’t a breeze, it was more manageable. We started a bit late to give Fred some extra sleep, and the wooded trails were beautiful. The steep shale descent at the end was tricky but doable—thankful it was dry!

Familiar faces started to become part of our daily routine, and although we probably shattered the peace of the Spanish countryside with nursery rhymes, Fred was entertained, and that’s what matters! After lunch, he took a 2-hour nap in the backpack, giving us time to switch into “goat mode” and cover some serious ground.

Zubriri is a picturesque riverside town, the perfect spot to restock on essentials like blister plasters and sunscreen. (Yes, I got my first blister! Darn socks!) Overall, we’re feeling great with no major aches, just those blisters.

Highlights:

• The beautiful blossom falling as we stopped to feed Fred—magical!
• Nathan’s dramatic “Don’t you feel so alive?!” moment at the top of a hill. Um, no… but he wasn’t wrong!
• Fred’s happy energy through the day.

Lowlights:

• A bit of self-doubt crept in when I sensed some judgment from fellow pilgrims about bringing Fred. Not everyone thinks we’re crazy, though!
• Nathan stayed up late booking more accommodations ahead—we’re getting a bit paranoid about availability.

Reflections:

• Stopping for Fred is giving us time to soak in the beauty around us, adding magic to the journey.

Day 3: Zubriri to Pamplona (ish)

Distance: 20.7 km
Accommodation: Hotel Iriguibel

Today was full of lessons! With Pamplona being so busy, we ended up booking a hotel just outside the city at the last minute—cue the panic! 400 pilgrims started the same day as us, so the trails and accommodation options felt a bit bottle necked. But hey, Domino’s pizza at the end of the day? Totally hit the spot, even if it wasn’t very Camino-esque!

The walk was gorgeous—undulating hills, endless meadows, and picture-perfect spots for rest. Fred’s officially a pro at getting attention (his photo was taken a lot!), and we’re finding a good rhythm with feeding, breaks, and sleep.

Highlights:

• Fred is adapting well, sleeping soundly and keeping a smile on his face. We’re feeling a groove with the pace and breaks!
• The endless meadows that we never thought we’d appreciate this much.
• Cold drinks from a trail vendor—so refreshing!
• Found the most peaceful spot for feeding Fred at a quiet church in Trinidad de Arre.

Lowlights:

• Staying outside of Pamplona meant we didn’t get to explore the city as much as we hoped.

Reflections:

Must stay hydrated! Need to drink more water throughout the day.

===============================================================================================

More blog posts coming soon! Check out our homepage and follow our journey on socials @caminoforall for more insights into accommodation, travel with a baby, and handling judgment on the Camino.
#CaminodeSantiago #FamilyAdventure #TravelWithKids #PilgrimJourney